An Eczema-Friendly Guide to Microneedling and Derma Rollers

I honestly believe that the tools we use in skincare can be just as important as the products we use with them. One of my favorite tools I’ve ever used and continue to turn to is the derma roller.

What is a derma roller?

For the uninitiated, “derma roller” is the name of the device itself. It was first developed in 2006 by Dr. Desmond Fernandes. The device is small, handheld, and looks like a tiny paint roller covered in barely visible needles. The needles range in length from 0.2 to 3.0 millimeters. It is designed to be rolled gently over the surface of the skin.¹

What does it do?

The procedure the device is performing is collagen induction therapy, more commonly known as microneedling. This practice dates back to 1995 and was developed by renowned dermatologist Dr. Norman Orentreich. Dr. Orentreich is known as the father of modern hair transplantation and was the creator of the skincare line Estée Lauder (among numerous other accolades). He created a concept he called “subcision,” which is the idea of using hypodermic needles to induce wound healing.¹

What should you know before trying a derma roller?

Derma rollers have gained significant attention in recent years as a skincare tool that promises a range of benefits, some of which I can personally attest to!

However, while derma rollers have gained popularity, it's important to understand how they work, their potential benefits, and other considerations before incorporating them into your skincare routine.

What is microneedling?

So, how does microneedling work on a physical level? Microneedling works to create extremely small (micro) injuries to the epidermis with needles. The body’s efforts to heal these injuries promote new skin growth and cellular regeneration, which then stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.¹

Microneedling has been used as an effective tool to help treat a wide variety of common dermatological issues. These include reducing scarring, acne, and hyperpigmentation as well as improving the look and feel of aging skin.

How has it worked for my eczema and acne?

I have been practicing microneedling with a derma roller at home inconsistently for several years. The longest stretch I consistently practiced was for 3 years, using the derma roller 1 or 2 times a week. By the end of that time, I had achieved impressive results in minimizing my facial acne scarring. And the results lasted regardless of my stopping the practice.

I have only ever used the roller on my face, and can only use it when not super flared up. One day, I may experiment with other scars around my body.

What have I learned since trying it?

To get the best results possible, there are some general rules I was advised to follow that I will share with you, in case you decide to try out microneedling for yourself.

Rule #1

The first, and most important rule is you need to sanitize your derma roller before and after using it. Every time!

I got myself a small spray bottle from my local dollar store and some rubbing alcohol and used that to sanitize my derma roller. You want to let the derma roller air dry after sanitizing before applying it to your skin to prevent alcohol from entering and drying out your skin. After using the derma roller, sanitize it again and let it air dry so the needles don't rust.

Rule #2

The second rule is that your face also needs to be clean before you begin derma rolling. Just like an unsanitized derma roller could create conditions that lead to a skin infection, so could unclean skin.

Rule #3

The third and last rule isn’t a rule, but more of a suggestion. After using your derma roller, apply a serum of your choice to your face! Microneedling increases product absorption through the micro conduits created by the needles, so it’s the perfect time to get the most benefit out of your favourite serum.

What should you do if you want to try it?

I hope you enjoyed my overview and tips on using derma rollers for at-home microneedling. As you may have guessed, microneedling most certainly has the potential to exacerbate atopic facial skin. If you are unsure if this practice is right for you but you’re interested in trying it, speak with a health professional that you trust to see if microneedling is safe for you and your unique skin situation.