What Is My 5-Step Skincare Routine?

I don’t know about you guys, but I really love having a routine; I thrive under its direction. However, I often make the same mistakes when it comes to setting routines, especially skincare routines.

Sometimes I overcomplicate the routine by adding unnecessary steps and redundancies. Sometimes I oversimplify the routine to the point where there are not enough steps or considerations taken to make it truly effective.

What are the steps to my eczema skincare routine?

My atopic dermatitis skincare routine is a simple, classic, easy-to-remember 5-step routine. It’s a modified version of the regimen introduced to me when I was young. The steps are as follows:

1. Cleanse
2. Exfoliate
3. Tone
4. Treatment
5. Moisturize

Let's break them down further and look at how and why I use them!

Step 1: Cleanse

I have learned a few rules for cleansing the eczema that appears on my face, neck, eyelashes and eyebrows.

What rules do I follow?

I avoid cleansers that dry out my skin too fast because they aggravate my face. I also avoid cleaners that are too balmy because I have adult acne. The products available for acne can be especially aggravating to my skin. As much as products that contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide actually work to get rid of my acne, it comes at the cost of aggravating my atopic dermatitis.

So, as much as it sucks, I've had to consider which I would rather live with: adult acne or severe facial atopic dermatitis. I chose acne as it is easier to live with. The good news is, I have found a non-aggravating product to use when a pimple pops up.

What cleansers do I use?

My go-to everyday cleanser is the Uriage Xemose Cleansing Soothing Oil. This product is specifically made for skin affected by atopic dermatitis which is the focus of the Xemose line in particular! I have been using it for several years, and it is the only completely irreplaceable aspect of my skin routine!

Although the Cleansing Soothing Oil will take off makeup with little effort and no irritation, sometimes I find that I need something with a little more kick if I’m wearing heavier makeup. During those times, I turn to the Original Clean It Zero Cleansing Balm from Banila Co. This product has not irritated my skin, even during my worst flare-ups. Crazier still, it doesn't cause me any irritation even though it is scented!

Step 2: Exfoliate

The next step, exfoliation, is the one I don’t practice every day. I use the current condition of my skin to determine when I should exfoliate.

When do I exfoliate?

If my skin is very dry and itchy, I exfoliate less - about once every 7 days.

If my skin is oily but flaky around my eczema-affected areas like my eyebrows, I exfoliate twice a week, dispersing those days throughout the week. For example, if I exfoliate on Monday, I’ll skip Tuesday and Wednesday and exfoliate again on Thursday.

If my skin is really oily, not flaking, and not heavily impacted by my atopic dermatitis, I might do 3 days a week. It all really depends on how my skin is responding and what else is currently going on with my skin.

What exfoliator do I use?

I have found that Miss A’s Vitamin C and E Exfoliating Gel is a gentle but effective exfoliator. I like that this product has an instantly visible effect, you can see it working and sloughing off dead skin. I also like the price point - one pouch is under $2 and lasts me about 6-7 months.

Step 3: Tone

After I have washed off my cleanser and perhaps even exfoliated, I use a toner on my skin. Yet again, I have to find a balance between my facial atopic dermatitis and adult acne. My toner has to hit the sweet spot between being purgative enough to reduce acne formation and hydrating enough not to aggravate the eczema on my eyelids and eyebrows.

What toner do I use?

Using a crocheted reusable skin pad, I coat my skin with The Ordinary’s Glycolic Acid Toning Solution. If you are wincing at the mention of the word ‘acid,’ fear not! This water-based toner provides both gentle exfoliation and hydration. It contains glycolic acid, aloe leaf juice, and ginseng root extract, which are excellent emollients!

The Ordinary is one of my favorite brands. I really respect their combination of affordable price points and science/evidence-based products. The company has not increased its prices in the 5 or so years I have been a customer. Their products are not overly complicated, rarely ever containing more ingredients than they absolutely need. They also proudly explain their science and reasoning behind their evidence-based formulations. I mean, really! What more can a girl ask for from a skincare company?!

Step 4: Treatment

My skin treatments step change depending on which of my skin concerns bothers me the most or needs the most attention at that time.

Sometimes I only use one type of treatment; other times, I use all of the products I have. A big part of finding relief successfully includes listening to my skin.

What treatment do I use for my acne?

The COSRX Acne Patches are the thing I reach for to get pimples out of sight, so I’m not tempted to mess with them. This patch holds its place in my regular routine after years of use. The hydrocolloid patch sticks to your face and stays there for longer than any other acne patch I’ve tried. Granted you must apply it AFTER your lotions/oils/balms have dried.

Hydrocolloids help speed along the healing process of a pimple by pulling it to the surface. They are the same kinds of bandages used for blisters, except made especially for acne in both size and shape.

What treatment do I use for eczema?

When the most pressing skin concern is flared-up eczema, I use the COSRX Hydrium Centella Aqua Serum to help calm my skin. It contains a “too-amazing-to-be-true-but-it-is” ingredient, Centella Asiatica extract! The Centella asiatica plant contains bioactive antioxidant compounds like madecassoside which are renowned for their soothing and nourishing capabilities.¹

I can’t stop singing the praises of Centella. My skin finds it incredibly easy to tolerate when it’s extremely aggravated. If I use this serum when my eczema is flared-up, both the duration and severity of the flare-up are reduced.

What treatment do I use for dry skin?

Lastly, when my skin is feeling dry, which is often the case thanks to atopic dermatitis,
I use The Ordinary’s Hyaluronic Acid Serum. It costs less than $10, which is a huge draw for me. This serum is water-based and contains a mixture of a few types of algae and a slew of amino acids and antioxidants. I find it to be an effective, lightweight solution for my extra dry patches. However, I do not use this product during especially inflamed flare-ups, as it ends up causing more discomfort.

Step 5: Moisturize

Finally, we arrive at the last and most crucial step: moisturizing!

I often apply 1-3 moisturizers and I consider them all a part of the same step. As you probably guessed, what I use and how many products I use vary depending on how my skin is doing that day.

What products do I use to moisturize?

The first product is my all-time favorite moisturizer, and it is MADE for eczema: Uriage Xemosé Anti-Itch Soothing Oil.

The next moisturizer I use regularly is the MISSHA Glow Skin Balm. I only apply it if I am planning on wearing makeup. I love the way this product feels on my skin. It works as a primer, balm, moisturizer, and correction cream all in one! I use it as a protective layer between my moisturizer and either a tinted BB cream or full-coverage foundation. It helps provide a barrier that ensures my skin isn’t angrier when I take off my makeup than before I put it on.

Lastly, I finish with a sunscreen that is at least SPF 30 or more. I use an SPF 50 sunscreen from the K-beauty brand Inisfree which is formulated to avoid the overproduction of sebum, an oil our pores produce to keep hydrated but can cause acne. I also let my kids use this product. My daughter has dermatitis and very sensitive skin, and it works well for her. The moist cushion-style applicator is easier and less messy than traditional cream formulations.

What does your skincare routine look like?

Choosing products and finding the best methods to apply them when you have atopic dermatitis can be extremely challenging at the best of times. Hopefully, you take something away from my lived experience that might help your skin feels a little bit better day to day.

What are your favorite products in your five-step system? Do you have any “hidden gems” in your medicine cabinet that work for your atopic dermatitis? Let me know in the comments!